Double baked dimple dial with retailer stamp. And don't forget the GF bracelet on this magnificent 2526!

When introduced, the 2526 came with quite a hefty price tag of 3400CHF. That might sound like a joke, but this was a lot of money for a watch in the 50’s. For comparison, the almighty 2499 retailed for just 400CHF more. And the 2526 was merely a time-only dress watch, not a Grand Complication like the afore mentioned.

But back in 1953 it was immediately received with high regard, demonstrated by the clientele that obtained one. Besides the famous Andy Warhol, the distinguished collector JB Champion got his hands on the very first one that saw the light of day. Ours is produced in 1955 and sold in the year after, confirmed by the extract of the archives. In 1960 the production ceased after a few thousand pieces in different configurations.

Let’s start with the case, created by Genevan master F. Baumgartner. It comes in at 36mm and has a slightly amorphous shape. It’s quite thick and unlike most previous Calatrava’s, it features a screw-back rather than a snap-back, making the watch somewhat waterproof. Adding to the sportiness, a small domed bezel is mounted on the case. Although it has quite fat lugs, the overall design remains stylish and elegant since it's pretty straight-forward. The hallmarks are still clearly visible, next to the stock number of the Italian retailer it was delivered to.

Details do matter, especially when it’s as cool as this crown. All Pateks with this caliber are fitted with the “Double P” signed crown. Whilst not unique to the 2526, it is something that definitely catches the eye. The sizing is spot on and the detail is eminent.

Now on to something really interesting: the dial. Most collectors know the 2526 as the Calatrava with the double baked enamel dial. The use of enamel for dial making is something we rarely see and is only being done by the very top of the brands due to the fact that it’s rather costly and difficult to produce. Today, Patek still create specials with “Cadran Email”, but back in the days it was really unique, even more so because the 2526 was not a limited edition, nor a super complication nor only available upon special request.

But what is so special about the decorative art that is enameling. First of all, aesthetically it adds so much charm to the watch. The way the light reflects on the surface is fascinating. The thick glaze creates dimples near to the batons and base of the hands, especially on the first series dials. In combination with the deep brown text and second markers it gives it an unparalleled depth. In this case, we can find a little extra above the decentral seconds: the retailer stamp of Gobbi Milano. Additionally we are very proud to conclude the dial is in immaculate condition.

The movement does a lot of the heavy lifting to maintain the prestige the 2526 is known for. The 12-600AT is one of the best time-only movements ever! It was launched in 1953 and straight away featured in multiple references, including the 2526, as their first self-winding caliber. It is not like Patek Philippe wasn’t able to produce an automatic movement earlier on, but Rolex had a twenty-year patent on this mechanism. If you witness the construction and finishing of this movement -our best guess would be- is that they used these 2 decades to develop and finetune the 12-600, quality wise resulting in a caliber that stands in a league of its own.

I said “witness” because you had to unscrew the case back in order to behold the beauty, since see-through case backs weren’t invented yet. So basically, the hand-finishing they applied, to decorate the 18K rotor for example, was something the customer would probably never see nor had any practical reason, but they did it anyway. Talking about going the extra mile and not bragging about it. But it must be a real joy for a watchmaker to open this watch and discover the swan-neck regulator and Gyromax balance wheel, making sure the watch can be adjusted to extreme precision, with just a 1 second variation in 24 hours. The Gyromax still is a trademark up to this day and Patek Philippe’s own seal of quality (introduced in 2009) is inspired on the PP crest engraved on the rotor of this movement.

I would say the bracelet usually is subordinate to a dress watch as this generally isn’t taken into account when designing a piece like this. They are more frequently fitted with a leather strap of choice anyhow. But I believe the bracelet plays an important part of the 2526. This 5-row brick construction with decoration on the centerlinks, is designed by the famous Gay Freres and measures up to 18,7cm on its widest setting in the clasp.

It is delivered with a period correct box, extract of the archives and Patek Philippe service papers from 2019.